The Hidden Gems: How to Spot High-Quality Items in a Thrift Store

Thrifting is like treasure hunting, but with some insider tips, you’ll be finding the gold in no time! Here's how to score the best items that will last, look great, and keep you coming back for more.

1. Try the Fabric First 

• Weight and Thickness: Premium fabrics tend to have a more substantial and heavier feel, even in lighter options like silk or cotton. A wool coat, for instance, should feel dense without feeling overly heavy.
• Natural Fibers vs. Synthetic: Opt for natural fibers such as wool, silk, and cotton, as they allow better breathability and typically have a good lifespan. Test cotton by crumpling it—if it’s of high quality, it will bounce back with few wrinkles.

2.  Examine the Sewing & Structure

• Double Stitching: Turn the garment inside out and check for double stitching (two rows of thread along the seams), which indicates durability.
• French Seams & Bound Edges: If you notice neatly folded or double-layered seams on the inside, that signifies superior craftsmanship, especially in vintage or older items.

3. Identify Sturdier Hardware

• Zippers and Buttons: Quality brands frequently utilize heavier, more robust zippers that don’t catch. Buttonholes ought to be snug, without any loose threads around the edges.
• Metal Accents: Numerous designer pieces feature metal zippers, clasps, or buttons that provide a weighty feel, unlike the lightweight plastic commonly found in fast fashion.

4. Recognizing Authentic Designer Items Brand Tag

• Designer labels are typically stitched in rather than glued, with stitching consistent with the label's color scheme. Well-known brands like Levi’s have distinctive labels and specific stitching styles (look for the double arcs on the back pockets of authentic jeans).
• Serial Numbers and Logos: Many designer items bear serial numbers on the inner tag or subtle logos on the hardware. Look for unique identifiers if you suspect you’re examining a high-end item.

5. Evaluate Quality Linings Inner Lining

• High-quality garments are generally fully lined, especially jackets, skirts, and dresses. The lining should feel smooth and slightly silky, not thin or flimsy.
• Underlining Details: Search for an additional layer of fabric beneath collars, cuffs, and hemlines—this underlining maintains the garment's shape and helps prevent wear.

6. Assess Condition: The Subtle Areas

• Hidden Wear Zones: Inspect armpits for stains and odors, particularly in vintage pieces. Examine collar edges and cuffs for indications of yellowing or pilling.
• Repairable Flaws: Smaller problems such as missing buttons or tiny snags are easy to mend, while tears in delicate fabrics like silk or chiffon could be more challenging. Consider whether the garment warrants a DIY fix!

7.Vintage Quality Indicators

• Union Labels: U.S. clothing manufactured prior to the 1980s may feature union labels that signify quality, such as tags from the International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union (ILGWU).
• Metal Zippers on Dresses: Dresses and jackets equipped with metal zippers were commonly produced before the 1960s. They are durable and suggest that the item was constructed with classic techniques. 

Read more about designer and vintage authentication in our blog post!

8.  Test the Stretch

Lightly pull on a seam or give the fabric a slight stretch. High-quality fabric should return to its original shape without appearing loose. This test is ideal for assessing leggings, sweaters, and other stretchy garments.